I actually cut up my sheet film into smaller portions for these tests and you could do the same thing with roll film too. I have a special old film box where I keep these films. In this case, your film should be fixed for 5 minutes. Next, you can perform the same test with your reused fixer over time. Keep in mind that different films require different cleaning times. So, if you are using different films, make sure you know their clearing times for each film.
You could also use fresh fixer every time you develop your films and prints, but that is not necessary as long as you manage your chemicals properly. It is really important to properly wash your films long enough. I use a hypo clearing agent to help shorten my washing times significantly. Read Testimonials from photographers and collectors from around the world.
I noticed my negatives were grainier than I expected, and was curious if this can be a function of dying fixer?? Thanks for any elaboration. Publish Preview. Fixing should not have any effect on grain; however, exhausted fixer will not fix the film properly, or at all. I like Ilford's rapid fixer -- less than 5 minutes for most films. Post Reply Preview. Luke H 16 years ago. I usually overfix just because I'm too lazy to keep good time. Even though it stated it's exhausted, my negatives are still clearing just fine.
I imagine a sign of it going bad is that you get cloudy negatives indicated on the parts that don't normally get any light, like the sprocket hole area?
Edited by filmgoerjuan member 16 years ago. Of course, different films require different times. Processing a snippet of exposed film in your fixer and then doubling the clearing time should be a good indication of how long you'll need to fix. Conventional wisdom suggests that it's a good idea to agitate the tank while fixing, because it probably exhausts locally like developer does and won't do its job completely even when the overall solution isn't spent. After a few rolls with a new batch of fixer, I pour a little into a beaker and fix a film snip at the same time that I fix the roll in the tank.
When the snip's no longer cloudy, I fix the tank for twice that time. If it takes more than 8 minutes to clear, I dump the fixer out after use. I've found that my standard hardening fixer can take 10 minutes to clear thus needing 20 minutes to safely fix without ever failing the hypo-check test. I haven't had a problem yet fingers crossed.
Each time I mix a liter of Rapid Fixer, I start with a running total of zero on a piece of note paper. For each roll or sheet I run through the fixer, I just add the corresponding points to the running total.
Whether I get to , or the hypo check clearly shows a precipitate forming, the fixer gets replaced and my hypo clear along with it with freshly mixed chemicals. It also provides a pretty concrete way to track fixer use without a bunch of guesswork or assumptions. More importantly: Experience and time have proven to me that this method is effective.
I keep a printed copy of the table above in my darkroom closet for easy reference. Darkroom chemicals that sit around deteriorate simply from oxidation. Follow the published guidelines for your preferred fixer would be my general advice. Your fixer should still be sufficiently active to fix more film. Test the fixer as stated above with a piece of leader cut off a film. Or you can buy fixer test papers made my Merck at least you could. These tell you how much use the fix has had.
It is not only accurate, but extremely cheap and will facilitate your darkroom life forever. Even may save you money, for when in doubt anyone tends to throw the fixer right away, just in case. No more with Edwal. Good Luck. You must log in or sign up to reply here. Show Ignored Content.
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